Since leaving volunteering and Tamale a week and a half ago we have been having some interesting travelling adventures!
It was very sad to leave Tamale and all my friends I made there over the two months. But I was excited also at the prospect of travelling around Ghana. We left two Sundays ago to travel to Mole National Park where I went on my first ever safari and saw lots of different animals, including elephants which was very exciting. This is where as a group we split up as Jo, Aron and I were flying back to London a week later than the others. Jo and I travelled down to Kumasi via the Kintampto waterfalls. Travelling in Ghana is always interesting - buses don't leave until they're full, no one ever knows when they will leave or how long they will take to arrive at the endpoint, and we are generally accosted by many people trying to help us with our bags in the hope that we will tip them generously. Let's just say it can be stressful!
By the time we arrived in Kumasi on Tuesday evening (where we met up with Aron who had been in Accra sorting out his passport) we were exhausted. Kumasi is the second biggest city in Ghana and so was very different to Tamale - lots of people, cars, no motorbikes or cyclists, and no goats and sheep wondering around the roads! We spent one day visiting all the tourist sites in town and then on Thursday we travelled to the nearby Lake Bosumtwi for a more relaxing day. That evening we went to a restaurant/bar and it rained so hard we couldn't even hear each other speak - we sat there for 3 hours waiting for the worst of the rain to stop. When we woke up in the morning it was still raining! (We got very excited when we saw a man with a kippa on - an American Jew in Ghana for 2 weeks...)
Friday morning saw us rise early to travel again from Kumasi - this time to a suburb of Sefwi Wiawso to visit the small Jewish community of Ghana for Shabbat. We had no idea what to expect and it was a very interesting Shabbat. The community welcomed us warmly and treated us so well. After two months of being in Ghana and not seeing any Jews, being in a community that rested on Shabbat and went to synagogue with kippot, tallitot, chumashim and even a Torah scroll was very surreal!
On Sunday we travelled for 10 hours to get down south to Cape Coast. Cape Coast is a small coast town which was once the centre of the slave trade and so has some big tourist sites, such as Cape Coast Castle and Elmina Castle. It was eerie visiting these castles and standing the slave dungeons, knowing what atrocities happened there. We also went to the nearby Kakum National Park where they have a canopy walkway above the rainforest that is 40m high in places! Once it stopped being scary it was beautiful! This week there is a festival going on in Cape Coast so there was a lot of people there and constant celebrations which was interesting to see.
Tuesday morning I went to hospital and after four hours they told me I did indeed have 'mild malaria'. And so in the end every memeber of our group did end up going to hospital! But I'm okay, they gave me medicine and I'm feeling a lot better now. In fact, malaria really does sound so much more scary from England. I have realised why. It's because we are always being told that malaria kills thousands and thousands of Africans every year. But with anti-malarials to reduce the symptoms and with medical treatment as soon as you fall ill, malaria can easily be stopped. It cost me 16 pounds to get anti-malarials for 3 months and then my hospital trip yesterday (to see doctor, have blood test and to get the medicine) cost 12 pounds. All together 28 pounds is not a lot at all for protection from malaria. But for the average Ghanaian, that is alot of money...
Today we left Cape Coast for Accra. I wasn't feeling so well on the bus so I stayed in the hostel and slept for a long time after we got here. Now I'm waiting for the others who went touring around Accra...
All is going well. Well, asides from the malaria but that was bound to happen anyway seeming as most travellers here do get it! And don't worry anyone who is reading this, I really am okay. We have five days left here and have plans to do some more travelling and to spend our last weekend relaxing at a nice beach. That's if it stops raining!
Wednesday, 3 September 2008
Tuesday, 26 August 2008
Cape Coast, Ghana: 5,184 miles East of America
Good evening. This is the news at ten, and I'm John Humphrys.
Actually, I'm not John Humphrys. Many of you (I hope) will be quite pleased to hear that; to those who aren't, I am sorry to disappoint, and I will try harder next time.
Tuesday, 19th August
I threw up after taking my larium again, so decided to change to doxycycline.
Wednesday, 20th August
Jo and Sasha were enskinned as Queen Mothers of Champe. I was at work, and in the afternoon went to get my enskinment garments made.
Thursday, 21st August
Went to get the enskinment garments. This consisted of a white 'butter curry' (phonetic spelling), matching white trousers, boots which make me look like a homosexual cowboy, a white hat, a cow's tail and a walking stick.
Friday, 22nd August
Got enskinned! We went to the village, Bokpomo, after a bit of a hassle getting a bus to take us there. When we arrived we waited while everyone else prayed (it was 1pm). While we were waiting someone asked me if they could marry Abi ("your sister"); I told him that was up to her. We then rode on motorbikes to a nearby village where the chief was that day. When we got there tom toms were beaten to announce that an enskinment was taking place. I don't remember the order of everything, but it involved being presented to the chief, accepting cola nuts from him, eating one (yuck), being given water by a villager, sitting down in front of the chief's dais and having my garments put on me, being presented to the women of the village, having to dance (briefly, thank goodness) to the tom toms, watching some professionals dancing to the tom toms, and probably other things that I don't remember. At one point they set off a gun outside (so that everyone would hear that an enskinment was happening; the gunshot would carry further than the sound of tom toms).
The end result of all this was that I am now Yimahi-Na of Bokpomo.
After this we went back to Tamale, and Mr Sulley had a dinner in the office for me and Abi and other people involved in Nfasimdi to say goodbye to us. Abi, however, had to go back to the house because she had stuff to do before Shabbat.
Saturday, 23rd August
Five of us (Sasha, Abi, Dan, Joel and myself) left the house. We got an MMT bus to Mole, which was possibly the most crowded vehicle I have ever seen. At one point an old Ghanaian woman sat on Sasha's lap for half an hour, and at another I had to put Abi's headphones on Joel, Abi had to DJ, and I fed Joel biscuits because he was unable to move. This journey lasted about six hours. However, when we arrived in Mole, the motel turned out to be very nice, with a pool. We spent a lot of time in the pool.
Sunday, 24th August
We went on two safari walks. We saw elephants, baboons, water buck, kop, bush-buck, and about a billion insects which ate us alive. Basically, it was incredible. I can't really describe it, so I'll just show you the pictures when I see you.
Monday, 25th August
We got a bus to Kumasi, which broke down on the way in a place called Techiman. However, the driver (who was hired by the guy we hired to get us to Kumasi) paid someone else to take us the rest of the way. Anyway, we got there in the end, and were met by a friend of Imoro. Imoro's friend, Shaibu, had got us cheap accommodation at a teaching hospital with some trainee nurses. To thank him for helping us we took him out for dinner in a nice hotel in Kumasi.
Tuesday, 26th August
We got a bus to Cape Coast this morning, and have spent the afternoon looking around town. We have so far found the best pizza so far in Ghana, Cape Coast castle, which we have 'done', and the beach, which is filthy. We plan to go to a nearby national park, Kakum, where you can do a walk through the forest canopy, tomorrow, and Elmina the day after that. On Friday we will travel to Accra, where we will stay until we fly on Sunday.
Actually, I'm not John Humphrys. Many of you (I hope) will be quite pleased to hear that; to those who aren't, I am sorry to disappoint, and I will try harder next time.
Tuesday, 19th August
I threw up after taking my larium again, so decided to change to doxycycline.
Wednesday, 20th August
Jo and Sasha were enskinned as Queen Mothers of Champe. I was at work, and in the afternoon went to get my enskinment garments made.
Thursday, 21st August
Went to get the enskinment garments. This consisted of a white 'butter curry' (phonetic spelling), matching white trousers, boots which make me look like a homosexual cowboy, a white hat, a cow's tail and a walking stick.
Friday, 22nd August
Got enskinned! We went to the village, Bokpomo, after a bit of a hassle getting a bus to take us there. When we arrived we waited while everyone else prayed (it was 1pm). While we were waiting someone asked me if they could marry Abi ("your sister"); I told him that was up to her. We then rode on motorbikes to a nearby village where the chief was that day. When we got there tom toms were beaten to announce that an enskinment was taking place. I don't remember the order of everything, but it involved being presented to the chief, accepting cola nuts from him, eating one (yuck), being given water by a villager, sitting down in front of the chief's dais and having my garments put on me, being presented to the women of the village, having to dance (briefly, thank goodness) to the tom toms, watching some professionals dancing to the tom toms, and probably other things that I don't remember. At one point they set off a gun outside (so that everyone would hear that an enskinment was happening; the gunshot would carry further than the sound of tom toms).
The end result of all this was that I am now Yimahi-Na of Bokpomo.
After this we went back to Tamale, and Mr Sulley had a dinner in the office for me and Abi and other people involved in Nfasimdi to say goodbye to us. Abi, however, had to go back to the house because she had stuff to do before Shabbat.
Saturday, 23rd August
Five of us (Sasha, Abi, Dan, Joel and myself) left the house. We got an MMT bus to Mole, which was possibly the most crowded vehicle I have ever seen. At one point an old Ghanaian woman sat on Sasha's lap for half an hour, and at another I had to put Abi's headphones on Joel, Abi had to DJ, and I fed Joel biscuits because he was unable to move. This journey lasted about six hours. However, when we arrived in Mole, the motel turned out to be very nice, with a pool. We spent a lot of time in the pool.
Sunday, 24th August
We went on two safari walks. We saw elephants, baboons, water buck, kop, bush-buck, and about a billion insects which ate us alive. Basically, it was incredible. I can't really describe it, so I'll just show you the pictures when I see you.
Monday, 25th August
We got a bus to Kumasi, which broke down on the way in a place called Techiman. However, the driver (who was hired by the guy we hired to get us to Kumasi) paid someone else to take us the rest of the way. Anyway, we got there in the end, and were met by a friend of Imoro. Imoro's friend, Shaibu, had got us cheap accommodation at a teaching hospital with some trainee nurses. To thank him for helping us we took him out for dinner in a nice hotel in Kumasi.
Tuesday, 26th August
We got a bus to Cape Coast this morning, and have spent the afternoon looking around town. We have so far found the best pizza so far in Ghana, Cape Coast castle, which we have 'done', and the beach, which is filthy. We plan to go to a nearby national park, Kakum, where you can do a walk through the forest canopy, tomorrow, and Elmina the day after that. On Friday we will travel to Accra, where we will stay until we fly on Sunday.
Sunday, 24 August 2008
Champe Wurche
This is my last morning in Tamale! Looking back on my time here I have so many memories and experiences to remeber. What i'll miss the most though has got to be the people i've met.
Leaving school on Friday was very emotional. I was about to cry when saying goodbye to the children but that was until I saw Dan bawling his eyes out - one of the funniest things i've ever seen!! Really didn't think i'd meet someone girlier than me here! Madam Cecillia presented me, Dan and Sasha with cards signed by the children and new african dresses in matching print! The three of us wearing the same pattern together though is enough to make u go cross-eyed!!
Since I last posted i've been made Queen of Champe village and now must be refered to as Champe Wurche! It was a great day but the responsibility given to us was huge and i can now feel the great commitment we have to the people of the village.
I also now have malaria but not to worry as i'm feeling just fine - really is a bit like a bad cold.
Me pnina and aron are going travelling together for 2 weeks.
Today we go to a national safari park to hopefully see some amazing animals. Then were travelling to the second biggest city - Kumasi. We're then spending this shabbos with the Ghanaian jews - well excited!!!! Then visiting the beaches, British slave fortresses, lakes, parks and waterfalls. Cannot wait!
Anyhoo must go as I havent finished packing and we're going in 2 hours!!!
Leaving school on Friday was very emotional. I was about to cry when saying goodbye to the children but that was until I saw Dan bawling his eyes out - one of the funniest things i've ever seen!! Really didn't think i'd meet someone girlier than me here! Madam Cecillia presented me, Dan and Sasha with cards signed by the children and new african dresses in matching print! The three of us wearing the same pattern together though is enough to make u go cross-eyed!!
Since I last posted i've been made Queen of Champe village and now must be refered to as Champe Wurche! It was a great day but the responsibility given to us was huge and i can now feel the great commitment we have to the people of the village.
I also now have malaria but not to worry as i'm feeling just fine - really is a bit like a bad cold.
Me pnina and aron are going travelling together for 2 weeks.
Today we go to a national safari park to hopefully see some amazing animals. Then were travelling to the second biggest city - Kumasi. We're then spending this shabbos with the Ghanaian jews - well excited!!!! Then visiting the beaches, British slave fortresses, lakes, parks and waterfalls. Cannot wait!
Anyhoo must go as I havent finished packing and we're going in 2 hours!!!
Friday, 22 August 2008
Last Day!
Almost finished and almost time to go back!
The new thing this week is a logbook I have created that keeps track of all transactions between Gigdev and others. I copied it so that it has the same format as the one we had when I worked in Gamestation which I thought worked particularly well. It turns out that Madame Stella has been pressing for a solution to this issue for a while. Hopefully this will mean that Gigdev can make sure that any money spent by future volunteers and others that is given to the workers has a portion going back to Gigdev (which is supposed to be happening anyway). All the book does is make sure that people are doing what they should already be doing with some of the money they are earning.
Next week we are splitting off into groups to go travelling: the 2 week travellers and the 1 week travellers. Its time for all of us to have a bit of a holiday in Ghana.
See you back in England!
The new thing this week is a logbook I have created that keeps track of all transactions between Gigdev and others. I copied it so that it has the same format as the one we had when I worked in Gamestation which I thought worked particularly well. It turns out that Madame Stella has been pressing for a solution to this issue for a while. Hopefully this will mean that Gigdev can make sure that any money spent by future volunteers and others that is given to the workers has a portion going back to Gigdev (which is supposed to be happening anyway). All the book does is make sure that people are doing what they should already be doing with some of the money they are earning.
Next week we are splitting off into groups to go travelling: the 2 week travellers and the 1 week travellers. Its time for all of us to have a bit of a holiday in Ghana.
See you back in England!
Thursday, 21 August 2008
Malaria, chieftaincy and traffic cops
Hello! I haven’t written for a while now and there’s a few exciting things to report…
Last week I was the third person from the group to be diagnosed with malaria. Don’t worry its not as bad as it sounds, as long as you get the drugs for it within a few days it shouldn’t kill you! All you really get is a headache, tiredness and some aching bones. I went back to the hospital today as Jo wasn’t feeling too great; turns out she has malaria as well, she’s now on the drugs so all should be fine. Having been to the hospitals here, I don’t think I’ll ever complain about the NHS. With long queues, goats wandering round and a toilet not fit for a Northerner out on the piss, its makes you appreciate what we have at home that much more.
The second bit of news (and the biggest) is that I am now a village chief! The village is called Nanton Zuo and is about 15 minutes outside of Tamale. My title is “Saha Na” which directly translates as Luck Chief, this puts me in the role of Youth Chief, where I am responsible for all villagers aged from around 20 to 30. We had a ceremony to “enskin” me; it started with wearing traditional clothing consisting of a smock, hat and towel draped over my shoulder (pictures to follow). We went into one of the sub-chief’s palaces and sitting on the floor among the villagers a few speeches were made. To become a chief here kola nuts have to be exchanged. Kola nuts are about 2 inches across and have an extremely bitter, acidic taste to them. People eat them as they contain nicotine and give you short bursts of energy. They are used in chieftaincy ceremonies as they are shaped like a heart and so the giving of them is a sign of friendship. After giving me a kola nut, eating it and then handing them out to the rest of the men, I was officially a chief. I made an acceptance speech about how honored I was and told a story to explain why one cannot only rely on g-d and must work for themselves. We then left the palace and met the village women, lots of singing, drumming and dancing followed to celebrate the occasion. They’ve offered me land to build my own palace and I’ve also been told they’d chuck in a few wives as well! So from now on my name is either “Saha Na” or “Chief” and it is an offence to call me anything otherwise!
Today, on the way back from the hospital I was dropping Jo off at Barclays Bank to change some traveler’s cheques. The traffic lights next to the bank were red so I took the motorbike onto the pavement and into the bank. On the way into the bank’s courtyard a traffic policeman stopped us and explained to me what I had done wrong. Of course he then said we’d have to go to the police station to pay the fine and I asked if I could pay the “fine” there. He agreed and said it would be 20 cedis, only 10 pounds but an extortionate amount here.
I said ok fine then we’ll go to the police station.
He replied saying “ok you want to pay more, that’ll be 40 cedis”
I thought “oh s**t this is going to be expensive” but said “no let’s go to the police station”
Then another traffic cop came along and the two spoke in Dagbani and decided to let me off, get in!
(It’s just lucky he didn’t see me going through a red light about 5 seconds before I came onto the pavement!!)
That’s enough for one blog, hope you enjoyed it, will try and write one or two more before I come home…
xx
Last week I was the third person from the group to be diagnosed with malaria. Don’t worry its not as bad as it sounds, as long as you get the drugs for it within a few days it shouldn’t kill you! All you really get is a headache, tiredness and some aching bones. I went back to the hospital today as Jo wasn’t feeling too great; turns out she has malaria as well, she’s now on the drugs so all should be fine. Having been to the hospitals here, I don’t think I’ll ever complain about the NHS. With long queues, goats wandering round and a toilet not fit for a Northerner out on the piss, its makes you appreciate what we have at home that much more.
The second bit of news (and the biggest) is that I am now a village chief! The village is called Nanton Zuo and is about 15 minutes outside of Tamale. My title is “Saha Na” which directly translates as Luck Chief, this puts me in the role of Youth Chief, where I am responsible for all villagers aged from around 20 to 30. We had a ceremony to “enskin” me; it started with wearing traditional clothing consisting of a smock, hat and towel draped over my shoulder (pictures to follow). We went into one of the sub-chief’s palaces and sitting on the floor among the villagers a few speeches were made. To become a chief here kola nuts have to be exchanged. Kola nuts are about 2 inches across and have an extremely bitter, acidic taste to them. People eat them as they contain nicotine and give you short bursts of energy. They are used in chieftaincy ceremonies as they are shaped like a heart and so the giving of them is a sign of friendship. After giving me a kola nut, eating it and then handing them out to the rest of the men, I was officially a chief. I made an acceptance speech about how honored I was and told a story to explain why one cannot only rely on g-d and must work for themselves. We then left the palace and met the village women, lots of singing, drumming and dancing followed to celebrate the occasion. They’ve offered me land to build my own palace and I’ve also been told they’d chuck in a few wives as well! So from now on my name is either “Saha Na” or “Chief” and it is an offence to call me anything otherwise!
Today, on the way back from the hospital I was dropping Jo off at Barclays Bank to change some traveler’s cheques. The traffic lights next to the bank were red so I took the motorbike onto the pavement and into the bank. On the way into the bank’s courtyard a traffic policeman stopped us and explained to me what I had done wrong. Of course he then said we’d have to go to the police station to pay the fine and I asked if I could pay the “fine” there. He agreed and said it would be 20 cedis, only 10 pounds but an extortionate amount here.
I said ok fine then we’ll go to the police station.
He replied saying “ok you want to pay more, that’ll be 40 cedis”
I thought “oh s**t this is going to be expensive” but said “no let’s go to the police station”
Then another traffic cop came along and the two spoke in Dagbani and decided to let me off, get in!
(It’s just lucky he didn’t see me going through a red light about 5 seconds before I came onto the pavement!!)
That’s enough for one blog, hope you enjoyed it, will try and write one or two more before I come home…
xx
GIGDEV Leaving
Yesterday (Wednesday) was the last day that most people were in the office at Gigdev because they are at a workshop today and tomorrow and so last night we spent two hours saying goodbye's.
It was quite nice and everybody had something good to say about my stay and what I have done. They stated very clearly that when I come back they want me to become an "ambassador for propaganda for Gigdev". With a certificate of appreciation, rice and vegetable fish dish from Madame Stella, and some fried dough balls I just couldn't say no.
After a bit of Israeli dancing that I taught last week at the party and some jokes I went home only to find a Guinea Fowl in the house. Chief Dan says that he was given it but I have my doubts. Did Chief Dan steal it with Queen Jo and Queen Sasha? I don't know. Only Changli knows the truth and at this moment he is unable to speak (he flaps instead). I suspect "Fowl" play.
Yesterday I also discovered more Gigdev outposts or small learning centres in about an hours travel radius of the main centre (I like to call them mini-Gigdev's). I also saw a ten acre patch of land which will eventually be super-Gigdev but not anytime soon. The mini-Gigdev's were
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1) Tolon - an outpost about 35 minutes away where I went to meet an ambassador for the region who promised to give me a gift to say thank you for visiting and to remind me of Tolon. Although small this miniG was very functional and everybody seemed to be sewing, ironing happily although it will need expanding if there is ever an increased demand of people which is looking 110% likely
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2) Savelugu (I heard it pronounced Savulga). This one was less functional because there was not enough shelter for the girls if it rains to work inside and also in was one sewing machine between two which is hardly ideal. People also defecate in the surroundings because of a lack of watchguard/metal fence and one area where the girls were working really stank. I would really like to see that particular area built up properly and I was disturbed by what wasn't there.
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After these visits I realised the strength of G's outreach because it really is powerful to say that these Girls would have had much poorer lifestyles if it wasn't for G taking them in a training them. G really does turn around peoples lives and I am proud to be part of something this great and effective.
Wednesday, 20 August 2008
The Chief
I am writing to you as a chief of Chanpe Village, Ghana. Chanpe is the village that we're helping to build the new school in and i am now in a position of authority. Let me tell you a bit about my day....
We arrived at the village at around 11.30 to some very talented drumming by some of the men in the village and we are led in a procession to the [big] chief's palace. We step inside and a small ceremony (that i don't understand as it isn't in English) and then we are led into the palatial compound. The girls (Jo and Sasha) go off to one hut and i go to another. As fits tradition the chief puts on my smock and then takes it off and dresses me in it. I then need a hat....PROBLEM: my head is too big for any of the hats but eventually i managed to stuff my overgrown cranium into the chiefs hat.
We then come back into the palace where i have to eat a Kola (sp?) nut, which is truly disgusting and then i must drink some water (PURE water, kindly bought with us by Mme Cecilia). and then the celebration continues as another drumming procession leads back to the main square.
Myself and the 2 girls (or should i say Queens) partake in a little boogy with the villagers and then i tell the village a story (in short: a religious man's boat sinks and he refuses help from any other boat or helicopter because 'g-d will save him', he dies, goes to heaven and shouts at g-d for not saving him. G-d says that he sent helicopters and boats. The moral being that if you want g-ds help you have to help yourself) and JO made a prayer for the village.
Asd we were about to leave, the called us back and told us they had gifts of thanks for us: a massive sack of yams, lots of tomatoes and.....a GUINEA FOWL (think large chicken), a LIVE guinea fowl!!!!
This has to be the most surreal day EVER: I'm royalty (yes, this IS going on the CV) and i have a live guinea fowl as a pet in my garage for the next 2 days (until we leave). So when you next see me you shall address me as 'CHIEF NacheNa' (Chief of all the youth) but 'Chief Daniel' will suffice.
Oooh, PS i have servant.
We arrived at the village at around 11.30 to some very talented drumming by some of the men in the village and we are led in a procession to the [big] chief's palace. We step inside and a small ceremony (that i don't understand as it isn't in English) and then we are led into the palatial compound. The girls (Jo and Sasha) go off to one hut and i go to another. As fits tradition the chief puts on my smock and then takes it off and dresses me in it. I then need a hat....PROBLEM: my head is too big for any of the hats but eventually i managed to stuff my overgrown cranium into the chiefs hat.
We then come back into the palace where i have to eat a Kola (sp?) nut, which is truly disgusting and then i must drink some water (PURE water, kindly bought with us by Mme Cecilia). and then the celebration continues as another drumming procession leads back to the main square.
Myself and the 2 girls (or should i say Queens) partake in a little boogy with the villagers and then i tell the village a story (in short: a religious man's boat sinks and he refuses help from any other boat or helicopter because 'g-d will save him', he dies, goes to heaven and shouts at g-d for not saving him. G-d says that he sent helicopters and boats. The moral being that if you want g-ds help you have to help yourself) and JO made a prayer for the village.
Asd we were about to leave, the called us back and told us they had gifts of thanks for us: a massive sack of yams, lots of tomatoes and.....a GUINEA FOWL (think large chicken), a LIVE guinea fowl!!!!
This has to be the most surreal day EVER: I'm royalty (yes, this IS going on the CV) and i have a live guinea fowl as a pet in my garage for the next 2 days (until we leave). So when you next see me you shall address me as 'CHIEF NacheNa' (Chief of all the youth) but 'Chief Daniel' will suffice.
Oooh, PS i have servant.
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