8:30 am, 4th July 2008
We arrived two days ago, in the evening. Coming out of the plane the heat immediately struck us. It wasn't actually that hot, but it was very close and muggy. The airport itself was a relatively clean, well-maintained building, with colourful paintings all over the inside walls. Coming through passport control, we all laughed at the sign informing us that sexual deviance is not tolerated in Ghana, and if we have come for that purpose, we would be well-advised to go elsewhere. Outside the airport, we were immediately approached by a Ghanaian man claiming to be our contact. I told him he was mistaken, but he was really quite persistent; eventually I just told him to go away. We eventually found two taxis who appeared to be reliable, and got them to take us to the Ampax hotel, which according to our guide book was both good and cheap. After I accidentally paid the wrong person (oops, fleeced already) and Sasha successfully paid the right person, we loaded up and drove off, with 'our contact' bemoaning the fact that we weren't taking the minibus he had prepared for us. Arriving at the hotel, we asked for rooms for the eight of us. They had two double rooms, in which we all slept. While not exactly luxurious, we managed to get sufficient sleep before waking up at 4am the next day to go to the bus station.
The hotel proprietor, who was awake, went and fetched two taxis, and we got to the bus station for about 6. We managed to buy tickets for the 8am bus to Tamale, and settled down to wait. While we were waiting, I tried to get some food (tasty but very spicy, and if you ask for 'rice' they give you chicken too), and Aron's bag got stolen. This was very bad, as it had in it his passport, his camera, and some money. Thankfully he still had his wallet, which had some money and his cards. A heavily-armed policeman was found, and told about the incident, but apart from a quick look around the bus station he didn't (and probably couldn't) do anything else to help. At about 7:30, everyone had their luggage weighed, including us as one big group (70kg between the eight of us). We then got it put on the coach and duly departed. As we went, the landscape changed from the corrugated-iron roofs and roadside stalls of Accra, to the lush forest (jungle?) of southern Ghana, to the red dusty soil of the North.
2:30 pm, 5th July 2008
When we arrived in Tamale on Thursday night, we ate dinner at the bus station, while waiting for Peter (Tzedek's coordinator in Ghana) to meet us. We tried to phone him, but couldn't get through. We eventually got taxis to take us to the house, but they got lost until they came across Peter who showed them the way. The house is very nice, with plenty of space and all the necessary facilities - running water, with tanks in case of cutoff, and electricity. Gas comes in bottles for the cooker. All the rooms have fans in, which we usually use during the day.
On Friday, all the NGOs came for a meeting in the morning, and then we did a tour of all of them in the afternoon. This involved a lot of singing and dancing by Ghanaian children, and finding out who our bosses were going to be. My boss turned out to be a chief called Sule, with ritual scars on his cheeks and a shaved head. The tour finished with the NGOs taking us out for a meal at a local eatery. After the tour of the NGOs, we went to buy supplies for the house. We went to a sort of supermarket, which worked like Argos - you write down the item number of anything you see displayed, take the numbers to the till, pay, and then collect your goods. We then went to the market to get rice, yams, mangoes, pineapples and vegetable oil. Back at the house, kabbalat shabbat was sung with varying levels of enthusiasm and tunefulness by Jo, Pnina, Joel, Aron and myself. For dinner we made yam chips. Not having any wine, we made kiddush over some bagels, then ate and sat up talking, drinking, and playing mafia.
Saturday morning was very lazy - I got up at 10:15, and when Peter came at about noon, we went to the same eatery we had been to with the NGOs.
9:15 am, 6th July 2008
We had the loudest thunder I'd ever heard during the night, and it rained all night as well. Aron and I are going to sort out our transport for getting to the NGO we both work at today. It's relatively far from the house, and we may end up going to nearby villages. For the sake of my parents' nerves I'm not going to relate the solution that Peter suggested. The traffic here is not that dense, so the roads are safe enough in the light, but I wouldn't want to drive or ride on them in the dark. Apart from that, I have to get a Ghanaian SIM card today. I'll probably get an MTN one; that's the network Peter's on, and most of the others who have got SIMs so far have got MTN, so it will be cheaper to communicate if we're all on the same network.
1:10 pm, 6th July 2008
I have a SIM card now! My number, for anyone who wants to call me, is 0247889323. When calling from outside Ghana, begin with the dialling code for Ghana, 00233, and omit the first 0 from my telephone number. We also went to buy food in the market and just got back.
7:00 pm, 7th July 2008
Had a really strange day at the NGO today. After difficulty getting there (Sule thought I knew the way, so when I phoned him to say I didn't he sent Abdallah to pick me up), Sule was in a meeting in a nearby village. We passed the morning doing not very much - the other people at the NGO kept pressing me to play a computer version of strip draughts. When Sule came back we had a sort of lunch/board meeting to welcome me, in which absolutely nothing about what I was doing became clear. I then taught one of them to use PowerPoint for about 15 minutes, until they wanted to use the computer to do something with a budget, which apparently was a group exercise all by itself. According to Sule, we will start proper work tomorrow. I hope there's actually something for me to do. Talking to the others, they have had varying, but universally low, degrees of utility. Jo has been teaching a class while their regular teacher just sits around doing nothing because he's now unnecessary. They later (jokingly, I hope) suggested that they should 'give me' their secretary, Amina (a young woman of about 25). Furthermore, they seem to be completely devoid of creative thought. When teaching Abdallah to use PowerPoint, he was incapable of making up a title for his presentation. The mind boggles. It's also really difficult to communicate with them through the thick accents and impenetrable grammar. I had to explain to them today why "advocating women full participation in governance" was not a proper phrase - it was part of the title of one of their official documents.
10:20 pm, 8th July 2008
This morning, I went into the field with Abdallah, and saw two of the micro-credit projects run by Nfasimdi (my NGO). After asking lots of questions, and taking part in a 'cultural dance' (highly embarassing, it involved wearing a smock and prancing about, thus demonstrating that white guys really have no rhythm), I discovered that they needed a particular structure to their loans for the money to be most useful. Because their main business is trading in shea butter and rice, they need a load of cash in May or June, just before the shea harvest, and another load in August, just before the rice harvest. That way they can buy the crops when they're cheapest and sell them six months later when the price is high. I'm going to write an advocacy pack to send to banks to persuade them to provide such loans. I rode a motorbike home from Nfasimdi today. We'd spent the afternoon getting it road-ready, and finding me a helmet, and then practicing in the cement-maker's yard outside Nfasimdi's office. Sule Mohammed sat on the back and directed me, and everything went very smoothly. We went out for dinner, and on the way back we saw a sheep get run over by a car! The car didn't stop either, just carried on.